folks, I went to SCOTLAND.
Little-bitty me, who has never been anywhere much, has sat on a plane (six, actually) and crossed the Pond and trekked around in a foreign country for ten days. It is not, admittedly, comparable to Jenny's three months, but it is still a world beyond anything I have ever done before and it was absolutely fantastic. Except the bit where I caught a cold. But never mind about that.
We made our headquarters in Glasgow for this trip: a big city, by my reckoning, which is not much of a reckoning at all. From here we took various modes of transportation to a smattering of sites, or just rambled through Glasgow itself when we wanted a more leisurely day. We didn't get to see everything we had planned, of course, but our handpicked few were topnotch: Stirling Castle first, then Edinburgh Castle and Arthur's Seat, then Linlithgow Palace.
It was almost unfortunate that we went to Stirling first: it spoiled us for the rest of the trip. The castle seems to rise naturally out of the old volcanic rock, and perches splendidly over the town that lies in the valley below. The day we went was cold, and foggy at first, so that when we stood on the wall in Queen Anne's Garden, we were looking out over a white sea that stretched all the way to the hills on the horizon; William Wallace's monument rose up out of it like an island. Later on, though, the sun came up and the fog burned off, and then everything was frosty and glorious.
The castle itself was amazing. It has been mostly left alone, which is the way my family likes things. There were very few roped-off places, only a few careless signs informing us that there were "sheer drop offs" ahead and depicting stick people falling off them. For the Scots, I guess not killing yourself through stupidity is a matter of common sense. Anyhow, while some of the interior was a bit made-up and stilted, the ramparts and grounds were raw and old.
After Stirling, Edinburgh Castle was a bit of a let-down. It has been far more commercialized, being in the capital city as it is; there were also a lot more screaming children whose interest was, I suspect, extremely small. More areas were roped off and the setting itself was less magnificent; tellingly, I was looking for a photo to post and found none of particular interest from the Castle. We did get to see the Honours of Scotland and the Stone of Scone (we then went home and watched "Stone of Destiny" to get the highly accurate and not at all embellished story of its recovery), but they draw and quarter you if you bring a camera in.
We then scootched four miles or so through the city in a roundabout manner to reach Holyrood Park. This was the spectacular part of the Edinburgh excursion: the Salisbury Crags and Arthur's Seat.
The daylight was fading - it gets dark around 3:30 at this time of year - and we aren't athletic, so we didn't make it to the top. The view we had, though, was spectacular.
Linlithgow was a world apart from both Stirling and Edinburgh, partially because it was built as a palace and not so much as a fortress, partially because it was pretty thoroughly burned after The Forty-Five. The floors and the roof are gone, though you can still climb the spiral staircases in the corner towers and walk through the chapel and the royal apartments.
There seemed to be little of the palace worth seeing when we first entered the courtyard: a fountain, four burnt walls, four burnt towers. As we moved further in, though, the rooms began to unfold. Every time we started up a new tower, we had no idea where it would take us; I got completely turned around, and it was dizzying to suddenly find that I had come back down another staircase and was reentering the courtyard from some new angle. As to that, the staircases themselves were dizzying. I don't have a very good head for heights (I found that out with greater clarity on this trip), and as all but perhaps two stairways lacked handrails, I practically crawled up with my hand on the outer wall at all times. I didn't make it to the top; I left it to others to get photos.
See the greenish-blue figure on the bench toward the right? That's yours truly. ("I'd stay on firm ground and let them dare away!")
They say the palace is haunted by the ghost of Mary of Guise. Well, I don't know about that, but if it isn't haunted, then it ought to be. A ghost would find a very pleasant, if somewhat noisy, home in Linlithgow.
Of course there is more to the trip than these four places. We did a deal of walking through Glasgow itself, shopping or visiting the Necropolis, and we also ate extremely well. (If you ever get the chance to go, I strongly advise you to visit Burger Meats Bun: best. hamburgers. ever.) We packed the vacation full, since ten days is really not long at all when you factor in twenty-four hours for travel to and from, but they were also oddly leisurely. We saw the sites and still had time for a round game of whist come evening. Hearts, Mr. Collins - hearts.
I must admit one complaint, however. We saw a great deal of history and a great deal of scenery, but though I looked, I never did see Alan Breck.
We then scootched four miles or so through the city in a roundabout manner to reach Holyrood Park. This was the spectacular part of the Edinburgh excursion: the Salisbury Crags and Arthur's Seat.
That night I dreamed about hiding in the gorse. Combination of Arthur's Seat and Kidnapped, I daresay.
There seemed to be little of the palace worth seeing when we first entered the courtyard: a fountain, four burnt walls, four burnt towers. As we moved further in, though, the rooms began to unfold. Every time we started up a new tower, we had no idea where it would take us; I got completely turned around, and it was dizzying to suddenly find that I had come back down another staircase and was reentering the courtyard from some new angle. As to that, the staircases themselves were dizzying. I don't have a very good head for heights (I found that out with greater clarity on this trip), and as all but perhaps two stairways lacked handrails, I practically crawled up with my hand on the outer wall at all times. I didn't make it to the top; I left it to others to get photos.
See the greenish-blue figure on the bench toward the right? That's yours truly. ("I'd stay on firm ground and let them dare away!")
They say the palace is haunted by the ghost of Mary of Guise. Well, I don't know about that, but if it isn't haunted, then it ought to be. A ghost would find a very pleasant, if somewhat noisy, home in Linlithgow.
Of course there is more to the trip than these four places. We did a deal of walking through Glasgow itself, shopping or visiting the Necropolis, and we also ate extremely well. (If you ever get the chance to go, I strongly advise you to visit Burger Meats Bun: best. hamburgers. ever.) We packed the vacation full, since ten days is really not long at all when you factor in twenty-four hours for travel to and from, but they were also oddly leisurely. We saw the sites and still had time for a round game of whist come evening. Hearts, Mr. Collins - hearts.
I must admit one complaint, however. We saw a great deal of history and a great deal of scenery, but though I looked, I never did see Alan Breck.
Well, phooey.


















